⁣⁢Watchmaking Glossary⁤⁣

HERBELIN

GLOSSARY

A

316L Steel

High-grade, surgical, and anti-magnetic stainless steel used for HERBELIN cases and bracelets. Renowned for its exceptional corrosion resistance and hypoallergenic properties, it ensures wearer comfort and lasting durability.

Hands

Mobile indicators on the dial for reading hours, minutes, and seconds. At HERBELIN, their design is studied to ensure optimal legibility and visual harmony consistent with the style of each collection.

Beat Rate (A/h)

The number of oscillations made by the balance wheel per hour. A higher number indicates that the movement offers stable and regular precision. To the eye, a high frequency (often 28,800 alternations per hour) translates into a perfectly fluid, almost continuous sweep of the second hand, a hallmark of high-quality movements.

Amplitude

Measures the amplitude of the balance wheel's oscillation. Optimal amplitude signifies a perfectly healthy mechanism and fluid energy transmission.

Appliqué

Indices or numerals individually affixed in relief onto the dial, as opposed to printed elements. Appliqués lend the dial a depth and volume that dial printing cannot replicate.

Attachment

⁣⁢The fastening mechanism connecting the strap to the case. On the Antarès HERBELIN collection, this patented system has been re-engineered for rapid, tool-free strap changes in mere seconds.⁤⁣

Automatic

⁣⁢A mechanical movement that winds naturally through the energy generated by daily wrist movements. No intervention is necessary as long as the automatic watch is worn regularly.⁤⁣

B

Balance Wheel-Hairspring

The true heart of a watch, this assembly regulates the movement's operation with extreme precision. It comprises the balance wheel and an exceptionally fine spring (the hairspring), typically crafted from complex metal alloys (like Nivarox) to remain insensitive to temperature variations. By dividing each second into equal fractions, it ensures that energy from the mainspring is delivered consistently. This is the component that produces the characteristic "tick-tock" of mechanical watchmaking and guarantees the watch's chronometric reliability.

Barrel

A cylindrical drum containing the mainspring. It stores and gradually releases the energy required for the movement's operation.

Bicompax

A chronograph configuration featuring two sub-dials on the dial, appreciated for its visual balance and legibility. The most common layout positions the two sub-dials opposite each other, at 3 and 9 o'clock.

Case

The protective casing of the watch, housing the movement and largely defining a model's character. At HERBELIN, case design harmonizes aesthetics, wrist ergonomics, material robustness, and meticulous finishing.

Ardillon Buckle

classiquewatch strap closure system, with metal rod, similar to that of a belt. Simple, reliable and easily adjustable.

Interchangeable Strap

⁣⁢A system enabling bracelet replacement without tools or a watchmaker's intervention. This is the signature of the Antarès HERBELIN collection: a single case can thus accommodate steel, leather, or synthetic straps, allowing you to adapt your timepiece to any outfit or occasion.⁤⁣

Brushed

A surface finish characterized by fine parallel scratches, achieved through controlled abrasion. It lends the steel a contemporary matte appearance, often used in contrast with mirror-polished surfaces, whether on watch cases or bracelets.

C

Dial

The face of the watch and HERBELIN's primary canvas for creative expression. Each dial is conceived as a complete composition, where the choice of materials (mother-of-pearl, ceramic, multi-layer lacquer, guilloché steel, precious stones…), the balance of proportions, and the depth of finishes define a model's character.

Sunburst dial

Technical designation for a watch's internal movement. The caliber defines the watch's performance, reliability, functions, and complications. HERBELIN carefully selects its calibers, using only Swiss movements renowned for their precision and durability. Upon arrival in our workshops, each movement is optimized. It is regulated and controlled in a minimum of 3 positions, with a drift tolerance between 0 and +15 seconds per day.

Carbon

⁣⁢A high-tech, ultra-light, and shock-resistant material used in certain sport-oriented timepieces, such as the Newport Carbone HERBELIN collection. Its distinctive appearance, with visible interwoven fibers, has become a strong aesthetic marker, making each watch unique.⁤⁣

Ceramic

A scratch-resistant, hypoallergenic material that is pleasant to the touch, prized for its durability and luxurious appearance. Ceramic retains its original look far longer than traditional steel.

Chapter Ring (Minute Track)

Fine markings arranged around the dial or subdials, with a pattern reminiscent of railway tracks. This facilitates precise reading of minutes or seconds.

Chronograph

A function for measuring short durations independently of the time display, operated by dedicated pushers. It is one of the most prized complications in both sporty and elegant watchmaking.

Clous de Paris

A decorative finish composed of a network of small, intersecting pyramids, applied to the dial. It adds relief, depth, and a subtle play of light that shifts with the viewing angle.

Subdial

A circular zone on the dial dedicated to displaying a specific measurement, such as chronograph minutes or the small seconds.

Lugs

Case elements serving as attachment points for the bracelet. Their shape, length, and angle directly influence the watch's visual appeal on the wrist and wearing comfort.

Côtes de Genève

An emblematic decorative motif composed of parallel waves, engraved on the movement's bridges and plates. Its presence is an indicator of finishing quality and testifies to the care taken with components invisible to the naked eye.

Crown

Button located on the flank of the case used to wind the watch and set the time, or even the date depending on the model. Its grip and finish (it may be adorned with a precious stone) contribute to the overall case ergonomics.

Screwed Crown

Crown that screws into the case to enhance the watch's water resistance. Essential for diver watches, designed for underwater activities or watersports.

D

Date (or Date Window)

An aperture within the dial reveals the date, indicating the day of the month. Its placement (at 4 o'clock, at 6 o'clock, etc.) and its surrounding frame contribute to the dial's overall design.

Diver

A watch designed for diving, featuring enhanced water resistance with screw-down crowns, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and highly luminescent markers for optimal readability underwater.

E

Escapement

The mechanism at the heart of a mechanical movement, which controllably distributes the spring's energy to the balance wheel. It is what transforms stored tension into rhythmic, regular motion.

Limited Edition

A series of timepieces produced in limited quantities to commemorate an event, collaboration, or anniversary. HERBELIN limited editions are individually numbered and accompanied by distinctive elements specific to each series.

Lug width

The distance measured between the two lugs of the case, expressed in millimeters. It determines the strap width compatible with the model.

Balance Wheel

Precise adjustment of the balance wheel to ensure its center of gravity is perfect. At HERBELIN, this pursuit of dynamic equilibrium is what allows the watch to maintain its accuracy, regardless of your wrist's position.

Tightness

The case's ability to protect the movement from water and humidity ingress. It is expressed in ATM or meters and varies according to case design, seal quality, and crown type.

F

FKM

⁣⁢High-performance elastomer used for select sporty straps. Resistant to UV rays, perspiration, and temperature variations, it combines suppleness, durability, and comfort for demanding conditions. HERBELIN FKM elastomer straps are guaranteed for 10 years ( see conditions ).⁤⁣

Case Back

The rear face of the case. It can be solid steel, engraved with a decorative pattern, a brand signature, or personalized engraving. It can also be transparent (made of sapphire crystal or mineral glass) to reveal the movement.

Screw-down Case Back

A case back pressed directly into the watch case, without a screw-down mechanism. This assembly technique is common for quartz watches, where water resistance typically does not exceed 5 ATM.

Screw-down case back

Case back secured by screws or direct screwing, offering improved water resistance and enhanced shock resistance. This is a preferred assembly technique for sports watches and divers.

Horizontal Engraving

A surface marking technique creating regular horizontal lines on the dial. It provides a structured, contemporary texture, playing on matte contrasts depending on the angle of light.

Frequency

The oscillation speed of the balance wheel, expressed in alternations per hour (A/h) or Hertz (Hz). It dictates the precision of time measurement and the regularity of the movement. HERBELIN watches feature a minimum frequency of 4 Hz.

G

Glassbox

A domed crystal, typically sapphire, that sits above the bezel and creates a pronounced visual opening to the dial. This characteristic profile is associated with the aesthetic of vintage and elegant watches.

GMT / Dual Time

A watchmaking complication that displays two time zones simultaneously. Useful for frequent travelers or for tracking the time in a second country from the main dial.

Fluted

Decorative motif composed of rounded moldings, often found on bezels or cases.

Grained finish

A surface finish giving the dial a matte, slightly textured, sandblasted appearance. It reduces glare and improves legibility in certain lighting conditions.

Date Window

A small window cut into the dial to display additional information (date, day, moon phase). Its shape and placement are integral to the dial's design.

Guilloché / Guillochage

An ornamental technique using a rose engine lathe to engrave precise, repetitive geometric patterns onto the dial. Each guilloché pattern is the result of meticulous adjustment and precision work inherent to watchmaking tradition.

I

Hour Markers

Markers arranged on the dial to indicate the hours. They can be applied in relief, printed, or gem-set (in the case of diamonds, for example), and directly contribute to the legibility and visual identity of a HERBELIN watch.

Isochronism

The quality of a movement whose oscillations repeat with perfect regularity and strictly identical duration. In the realm of precision, isochronism guarantees accurate timekeeping in all circumstances: it allows the watch to maintain the same cadence, whether its spring is fully wound or nearing the end of its power reserve. It is the ultimate expression of mastery over time.

L

Luminescence (Super-LumiNova)

⁣⁢A photoluminescent coating applied to the hands and indices. It absorbs ambient light and re-emits it in darkness for several hours, with intensity varying based on the covered surface area and prior light exposure duration. Essential on diver watches, designed for nautical or sporting use.⁤⁣

Bezel

⁣⁢The ring surrounding the watch crystal. Fixed or rotating depending on the model, it serves both an aesthetic and functional purpose. On dive watches, it is unidirectional to enable the secure calculation of immersion time.⁤⁣

M

Links

Articulated elements that make up a metal bracelet. Their shape, assembly, and finishes (brushed, polished) define wearing comfort and the bracelet's overall aesthetic.

Oscillating Weight (or Rotor)

⁣⁢A semi-circular component that pivots freely on the back of an automatic watch. It captures energy from natural wrist movements and converts it into winding the mainspring. This is a key component found in automatic mechanical watches.⁤⁣

Swiss Made Movement

A movement designed, assembled, and inspected in Switzerland, adhering to Swiss legal criteria. This designation is a globally recognized indicator of precision, reliability, and manufacturing quality.

Quartz Movement

An electronic movement powered by a battery, whose precision relies on the regular vibrations of a quartz crystal. It offers great daily reliability and requires minimal maintenance.

Mechanical Movement

Exceptional movement composed exclusively of mechanical parts (springs, gears, balance wheel) operating without any electrical power. At HERBELIN, the calibers used in the watches are of traditional watchmaking construction: the absence of plastic components guarantees noble manufacturing and superior longevity. Fully removable and repairable, these movements are designed to last decades, be maintained fil the years and thus be passed down from generation to generation. A vision of sustainability that opposes planned obsolescence.

N

Genuine Mother-of-Pearl

A natural material derived from the inner layer of certain seashells. Each piece is unique: its iridescent reflections, shifting from rosy white to golden hues depending on the light, cannot be identically reproduced. HERBELIN uses it on select dials for its incomparable aesthetic qualities.

P

Small seconds

Layout where the seconds hand is offset on an independent counter, generally positioned at 6 o'clock. This choice of composition, inherited from pocket watchmaking, offers a classique and distinguished visual balance.

Moon Phase

⁣⁢A complication displaying the lunar cycle on the dial via an animated disc. Beyond its poetic dimension, the Moon Phase illustrates a movement's ability to faithfully reproduce an astronomical phenomenon.⁤⁣

Mirror Polish

Polishing taken to its maximum, rendering the metal surface perfectly smooth and reflective. It is often used in contrast with brushed surfaces to highlight the volumes of the case or links.

Crown Guard

A raised section of the case surrounding the crown to protect it from lateral shocks. Found on sporty watches, it enhances the case's robustness without compromising crown access.

Push-piece

Push-piece integrated into the case to activate, stop, or reset the functions of a chronograph. Its position, size, and resistance to pressure are engineered for intuitive use, even in motion.

PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition)

A coating technique that applies a colored layer onto steel, yielding golden, metallic, black, or vibrant hues. The result is a uniform and durable finish, resistant to daily wear. HERBELIN employs this technique to craft richly colored timepieces.

R

Chronometric regulation

The process of finely adjusting the movement to optimize its precision in various wearing positions. At HERBELIN, each movement is tested on a timing machine, regulated in a minimum of 3 positions, and verified over 24 hours. The accepted tolerance is 0 to +15 seconds per day, a forward-oriented adjustment that compensates for the natural tendency of mechanical calibers to slow down over time.

Flange

⁣⁢The inner ring of the case, located between the crystal and the dial. Often discreet, the flange plays a crucial structural role: it defines the dial's perimeter and contributes to the overall water resistance. At HERBELIN, it can be smooth or graduated, and enhances the dial's visual depth. On certain dive models, it takes the form of a unidirectional rotating flange, used to measure immersion time.⁤⁣

Automatic Winding

A system exclusive to automatic movements, where the mainspring is wound by the rotation of the oscillating weight, without manual intervention.

Manual Winding

The action of winding the mainspring by turning the crown clockwise. A daily ritual specific to manually wound mechanical watches.

Power reserve

The duration for which a mechanical watch continues to function without being worn or wound. Once the barrel spring is fully wound, this autonomy allows the watch to maintain its precision over a given period (often between 38 and 80 hours depending on the caliber). It demonstrates the movement's ability to store and deliver energy efficiently.

Jewels

Synthetic stones of extreme hardness, inserted at the movement's friction points. The higher their number, the more protection the caliber offers against wear on pivots and gears. By facilitating the rotation of the wheels, they guarantee the watch's longevity and precision. On a complex movement, a high number of jewels signifies a sophisticated horological architecture, where each mechanical interaction is optimized.

S

Satin Finish

An intermediate finish between brushed and mirror-polished, soft to the touch with an elegant appearance. It reduces glare without achieving the matte finish of brushed metal, and is particularly suited for dress watches.

Gem-setting

A technique involving the inlay of stones (diamonds, cubic zirconia) into the dial, bezel, or lugs. Gem-setting requires precise handcraftsmanship and imparts a jewelry-like dimension to the watch.

Skeleton

⁣⁢A watch whose dial or case back is hollowed out to reveal the moving gears. The skeleton version transforms the movement itself into a decorative element.⁤⁣

Stop-seconds

A device that stops the seconds hand the moment the crown is pulled to the setting position. It allows for precise synchronization of the time to a time signal, accurate to the second.

S

Anti-reflective coating

A microscopic layer applied to one or both surfaces of the sapphire crystal to neutralize unwanted reflections. It significantly enhances dial legibility under all lighting conditions.

Tricompax

⁣⁢A configuration of chronograph watches featuring three sub-dials on the dial (for chronograph hours, minutes, and seconds). Valued for its assertive technical aesthetic and wealth of information.⁤⁣

Sweep Second Hand

A hand dedicated to seconds, placed at the center of the dial. Its continuous rotation is often the first visible sign that a movement is running.

S

Unidirectional (Bezel)

⁣⁢A bezel that can only rotate counter-clockwise. This safety system is specific to dive watches: in case of accidental manipulation, the displayed dive time can only increase, never decrease.⁤⁣

S

Sapphire Crystal

A synthetic crystal with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, placing it just below diamond. Its near-total scratch resistance and transparency make it the benchmark material for protecting watch dials. HERBELIN integrates it into all its timepieces as a guarantee of durability and everyday legibility.

Mineral Crystal

At HERBELIN, mineral glass is favored for the case back. Its superior clarity to sapphire crystal offers ideal transparency for admiring the movement's components. While sapphire protects the dial from scratches, mineral glass on the skin side guarantees absolute clarity of the watch's heart.